The rounded feet-and-inches size under which a hand-knotted rug is listed, such as 9 x 12 ft (about 2.7 x 3.7 m), which only approximates its real dimensions. Persian and many other Oriental rugs are made to metric measurements and vary a little as they are woven by hand, so after conversion the actual size usually runs a few inches (roughly 5-10 cm) over or under; a rug listed as 9 x 12 ft may measure 9 ft 2 in by 12 ft 5 in (about 279 x 378 cm). Sizes are quoted width first, and the fringe is generally not counted in the length.
A light do-it-yourself clean for a hand-knotted rug that freshens it and delays the next professional wash rather than replacing it. After vacuuming the front side to side, sparing the fringes, the pile is wiped section by section with a clean, preferably white, cotton towel dipped in diluted, bleach-free dishwashing foam, moving with the pile so the rug is only dampened and dries within 30 to 60 minutes. Dirty fringes are laid over a stick of wood and brushed with the same mixture, working from the rug outward.
The rotating bristled roller in the head of many upright and power-head vacuum cleaners, which beats and agitates the pile to loosen dirt. On a hand-knotted rug it is too harsh: it beats the pile down and can grab and shred the fringe, which should not be vacuumed at all. The recommended alternative is suction alone from a light canister vacuum whose head has no beater bar, passed side to side across the rug's width rather than lengthwise against the pile; if only a beater-bar machine is available, the bar should be switched off.
Rugs from the city of Bijar in Kurdistan province, northwestern Iran, and the villages around it; the name covers both fine and coarse double-wefted pieces, woven by Kurdish tribes and, in workshops, Afshar weavers. Nicknamed the “iron rugs” of Iran, they are among the heaviest rugs for their size: double wefts, symmetrical (Turkish) knots, and rows beaten down hard, often while the wool is kept wet, give a thick, dense pile. Designs run from floral, Herati, and medallion to geometric, drawing on Isfahan and Kashan as well as Russian, Caucasian, and European sources (a French-style rose bouquet among them), in jewel tones of rust, red, beige, and navy. Bijars are often small rugs or runners, large sizes are rare, and the flat-woven ends and fringes are typically braided.
Various techniques for cleaning carpets, including hot water extraction (steam cleaning), dry compound cleaning, bonnet cleaning, and encapsulation, each suited to particular carpet types, soiling levels, and drying times. Hand-knotted rugs need gentler care: side-to-side vacuuming with a canister vacuum whose beater bar is off, sparing the fringes; an occasional light wipe with diluted, bleach-free dish foam on white cotton towels, worked in sections along the pile so it dries within about an hour; and a professional wash every 5 to 10 years, every 3 to 5 in heavy traffic, and before storing a rug for a year or more.
The warp ends that extend past both short ends of a rug. In a hand-knotted rug the fringe is not a trim added at the end but the visible continuation of the foundation, whose warp threads can be followed through the whole rug on its back, so it is made of the same fiber (cotton, wool or silk) and shows what the foundation is made of. It should not be cut off; if it has to be hidden, it can be tied back against the reverse. Weavers cut, tie, braid or decorate it, with braided or decorated ends especially common in tribal and village rugs, and how it is finished helps identify the origin; it is also seldom perfectly even, one end often running longer than the other. A fringe attached afterward, or none at all, points toward a machine-made rug.
The upkeep routine for a rug's fringe, the exposed warp ends. The fringe is kept out of vacuuming or at most swept gently with a broom, because a rotating brush roll grabs and shreds the threads, and it can be combed softly with a wide-tooth brush to keep it from tangling. When dirty it is washed by laying it over a board or stick and brushing it from the rug toward the tips with heavily diluted, bleach-free dish soap, then leaving it on the stick until fully dry. Bleach and other harsh chemicals are kept away, since they can rot the foundation.
A rug construction in which the weaver ties each knot of wool or silk pile yarn by hand around adjacent warp threads on a loom, then runs a weft through the row and beats it down. The cut knot ends form the pile, the warps and wefts form the foundation, and the warp ends become the fringe. A rug can take months or even years, and the work leaves subtle irregularities: patterns not perfectly symmetrical, opposite edges a few inches different in length, an uneven fringe. Authentic Persian, Oriental and Turkish rugs are hand-knotted, unlike hand-tufted rugs (sometimes sold as “handmade”) and machine-made ones, whose backs feel stiff and evenly aligned.
A flat-woven rug with no pile, traditionally made in Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, and the Balkans. Colored weft threads are interlaced with the warp without knots, so both sides look alike. The fibers are typically wool, cotton, or goat hair, and natural dyes often give slight shade variations that are normal, not flaws. Its low profile clears doors easily, and it can hang as wall art. In a knotted rug, "kilim" also names the flat-woven band at each end, where extra weft rows secure the ends beside the fringe.
The band at each short end of a knotted rug, between the last row of pile and the fringe, woven with weft only. The weaver passes extra weft through the warp there several times, without knots, to secure the pile and give the ends a tighter, stronger finish. It is a finishing detail of a pile rug, not a kilim rug in its own right; a fringe that has to be hidden can be tied back against it on the reverse. In Bijar rugs the fringe at this end is often braided.
A rug produced by industrial machinery, typically on power looms, rather than knotted by hand, usually from synthetic fibers such as polyester, polypropylene or nylon, and finished in hours rather than months. Its design looks perfectly symmetrical yet slightly fuzzy, and its edges measure almost exactly alike. The back feels stiff and plastic-like, with a regular honeycomb texture on which the pattern cannot be read. Any fringe is a uniform synthetic trim attached at the end of production, and some rugs have none, unlike a hand-knotted rug, whose fringe is its own foundation threads. Machine-made rugs are less expensive, of lower quality and wear out sooner, and are not authentic Persian or Oriental rugs.
The skeleton of a hand-knotted rug: the warp and weft threads on which every pile knot is tied. Cotton is the usual material in city and village rugs because it barely stretches or shrinks with humidity, so the rug keeps its shape, and it is rigid enough to knot through easily; that same rigidity can carry over into the design, which reads as less fluid than on a wool foundation. Wool, and sometimes goat hair, is typical of tribal rugs, whose weavers can use one material for both foundation and pile; it gives more character but a less straight shape. Silk, being finer, permits very high knot counts. The fringes at each end are the foundation's exposed warp ends, so they reveal its material.
A method of displaying a rug on a wall as a work of art; any style, tribal or floral as well as pictorial, can be hung. Strips of strong, adhesive-free cotton fabric (for a wide rug, for example three of about 24 by 4 inches, or 61 by 10 cm; for a small rug, one strip set about 1 inch, or 2.5 cm, in from each end) are hand-stitched to the back about 2 inches (5 cm) below the top, clear of the fringe or kilim end, with stitches every 1/2 to 1 inch (1.3-2.5 cm), and folded into a pocket. A wood or metal dowel slid through the pocket rests on wall hooks strong enough to carry the weight, which avoids damaging the rug.
Specialist work that mends damaged rugs, including re-knotting or reweaving worn areas, patching, overcasting (rebinding the edge), stretching, fringe replacement and color restoration. Small, skilled repairs that are hard to see are generally acceptable on an older rug, and an unrepaired rug commands the highest price. Visible patches, seams or stitching, easiest to spot from the back, and replaced fringes (the fringe being the rug's own warp ends, not a trim) count as major repairs that shorten a rug's life and lower its value considerably. Very old rugs often carry some repair, so a supposedly antique rug with none may be a newer recreation, though that clue alone is not conclusive.
An edge finish in which yarn is wrapped over and over around the outer edge of a rug, by machine or by hand, forming a rounded, rope-like band. It is the usual finish on the long sides of machine-made rugs (fringe usually marks the warp ends), and the way a worn edge of a hand-knotted rug is rebuilt (the repair called overcasting). The original edge of a hand-knotted rug is normally a selvage, woven in as the weft wraps the outermost warp during weaving, rather than an applied serge. On hand-made pieces, the evenness of the serging is a quick clue to the care taken in finishing.
The method of running the vacuum across a rug's width instead of along its length, so that the suction does not tug the pile in the direction it lies or work against it. It goes with a light canister vacuum without a beater bar and with keeping the fringe out of the machine, which may come close but must not be sucked in. The face is done every one to two weeks (monthly in a little-used room) and the back every month or two, flipping half the rug at a time.
The two thread systems that make up a carpet's foundation: the warp, the vertical threads strung on the loom first, and the weft, the horizontal threads passed through them between rows of knots. The foundation is usually cotton, though wool is common in tribal and older rugs and silk in very fine ones. Single-weft rugs, standard in the greater Hamadan area, show zigzag rows of white warp dots on the back and have a thinner pile, whereas double-weft construction, standard in fine, tightly woven rugs and in Bijar and Heriz, hides the warp and gives a thicker, denser pile. The warp ends form the fringe, and extra weft passes at each end form the flat-woven kilim end that secures the pile.
A rug base in which the warp and weft threads are wool instead of cotton. It is typical of tribal rugs such as Baluchi, Turkoman and Gabbeh (Gabbeh and Quchan sometimes use goat hair instead), turns up in some Qashqai, Shiraz, small Bakhtiari and Iranian Azerbaijan pieces, and is common in older village and tribal rugs, including some Hamadan and very antique Karaja. Experts use it as a clue to age, since rugs made after about the 1930s usually have a cotton foundation, once machine-spun cotton became widely available. Wool's soft, less rigid structure gives the design a fluid, warm character, and the fringes are sometimes braided or in different colors. The drawback is that wool shrinks and stretches with humidity, so these rugs tend to be less straight than cotton-based ones.